Lets Talk Adjustables

[Clouds]

Bohin

The Bohin was made in France and patented in 1937. Its adjustability comes from (a) its reversible head and (b) the shape of the posts which allow you to move the blade from side to side, exposing more or less. The base plate has it has de pres cote lame (close shave) on one side and and de tres cote pres lame (extra close shave) on the other side. The posts also have an indicator on the top of them - The de pres side is smooth and the de tres pres side has a "v" in the top of them.

I've found that the only way to get repeatability is pick the side and move the blade across as far as it can go on the posts. Its pretty primitive but does work.

How does it shave:
On the "extra close shave" side its somewhere between mild and low aggressive. There is very little blade feel but surprisingly this morning I had a two-pass BBS.

SOTD200705.jpg

[RiverValleyTrading]

Bohin

The Bohin was made in France and patented in 1937. Its adjustability comes from (a) its reversible head and (b) the shape of the posts which allow you to move the blade from side to side, exposing more or less. The base plate has it has de pres cote lame (close shave) on one side and and de tres cote pres lame (extra close shave) on the other side. The posts also have an indicator on the top of them - The de pres side is smooth and the de tres pres side has a "v" in the top of them.

I've found that the only way to get repeatability is pick the side and move the blade across as far as it can go on the posts. Its pretty primitive but does work.

How does it shave:
On the "extra close shave" side its somewhere between mild and low aggressive. There is very little blade feel but surprisingly this morning I had a two-pass BBS.

SOTD200705.jpg

Great shave there Clouds.

Sent from my SM-J701F using Tapatalk

[Clouds]

Great shave there Clouds.

Thanks RVT

[Clouds]

Palmera No 7

These were made in Spain and are the least known and rarest of the Gibbs derivatives and as such they are extremely difficult to source. Quality of the parts that touch you when you are shaving is on par with a Gibbs, when you go under the head and get onto the stem area it becomes a "little rough around the edges". Nothing bad but certainly not the same as the top, which frankly speaking is all that really matters.
There are a few small machine marks which haven't been completely polished out, the values are stamped as opposed to engraved and they are not all complete as is usual with stamping but they are there and that, again is what matters. Balance feels about the same as a standard Gibbs.

The are a few anomalies with it. The first is that the numbers go the wrong way and the adjuster wheel doesn't have a mark, so adjustment is really by feel. The topcap is wide so that it completely covers the blade tabs.

How does it shave
If my example is anything to go by, the shave is every bit as good as a Gibbs AND it takes standard "non-modified" DE blades to boot. If you enjoy a Gibbs the Palmera will not disappoint.

SOTD200709.jpg

[RiverValleyTrading]

These were made in Spain and are the least known and rarest of the Gibbs derivatives and as such they are extremely difficult to source. Quality of the parts that tough you when you are shaving is on par with a Gibbs, when you go under the head and get onto the stem area it becomes a "little rough around the edges". Nothing bad but certainly not the same as the top, which frankly speaking is all that really matters.
There are a few small machine marks which haven't been completely polished out, the values are stamped as opposed to engraved and they are not all complete as is usual with stamping but they are there and that, again is what matters. Balance feels about the same as a standard Gibbs.

The are a few anomalies with it. The first is that the numbers go the wrong way and the adjuster wheel doesn't have a mark, so adjustment is really by feel. The topcap is wide so that it completely covers the blade tabs.

How does it shave
If my example is anything to go by, the shave is every bit as good as a Gibbs AND it takes standard "non-modified" DE blades to boot. If you enjoy a Gibbs the Palmera will not disappoint.

SOTD200709.jpg

Awesome shave and write up Clouds.

Sent from my SM-J701F using Tapatalk

[Clouds]

Awesome shave and write up Clouds.

Thanks RVT

[Clouds]

Hospital XOXO Razor

There is no branding on this anywhere so I believe it to be a "Hospital" razor. But it has been branded under various names namely Doehler-Jarvis, Berkeley and Club, they are all the same razor. Doehler-Jarvis was a steel smelter and were the supposed manufacturers.

There is a thin spring steel shim riveted to the base plate which keeps the blade clamped. There is an arrow on the top of the handle and this corresponds with "XOXO" under the base plate.

How does it shave:
It gives an excellent shave.
The handle IMHO is too thin and it benefits from something thicker

SOTD200710.jpg

[RiverValleyTrading]

Hospital XOXO Razor

There is no branding on this anywhere so I believe it to be a "Hospital" razor. But it has been branded under various names namely Doehler-Jarvis, Berkeley and Club, they are all the same razor. Doehler-Jarvis was a steel smelter and were the supposed manufacturers.

There is a thin spring steel shim riveted to the base plate which keeps the blade clamped. There is an arrow on the top of the handle and this corresponds with "XOXO" under the base plate.

How does it shave:
It gives an excellent shave.
The handle IMHO is too thin and it benefits from something thicker

SOTD200710.jpg

Nice one Clouds. Where is this razor made?

[Clouds]

Awesome shave and write up Clouds.

Thanks RVT

Nice one Clouds. Where is this razor made?

And again RVT
They were made in The US of A

[Clouds]

Gillette Super Adjustable 109 - Plastic Base

This was introduced in 1977 and produced until 1988. It marked the end of the Gillette adjustable's era.

Plastic been cheaper than brass, this must have been a cost-cutting exercise. The top is identical to the metal (brass) base plate version. The handle is aluminium. The brass version would be a little heavier, although unless you have both versions in your hands you can't tell.

There were two different knurlings. The first type of knurling is the same as the previous adjustables and this was sold until 1981. In 1980 they introduced the diamong knurling, so a 1-2 year overlap and then the diamond knurling exclusively from 1982 until 1988.

Strangely, even though the diamond knurl was produced for longer I found it slightly more difficult to source at a reasonable price.

How to they shave:
I prefer the short-handle version, but their shaves are all pretty much the same.

Gillette SA 105 Plastic Base.jpg

[RiverValleyTrading]

Gillette Super Adjustable 109 - Plastic Base

This was introduced in 1977 and produced until 1988. It marked the end of the Gillette adjustable's era.

Plastic been cheaper than brass, this must have been a cost-cutting exercise. The top is identical to the metal (brass) base plate version. The handle is aluminium. The brass version would be a little heavier, although unless you have both versions in your hands you can't tell.

There were two different knurlings. The first type of knurling is the same as the previous adjustables and this was sold until 1981. In 1980 they introduced the diamong knurling, so a 1-2 year overlap and then the diamond knurling exclusively from 1982 until 1988.

Strangely, even though the diamond knurl was produced for longer I found it slightly more difficult to source at a reasonable price.

How to they shave:
I prefer the short-handle version, but their shaves are all pretty much the same.

Gillette SA 105 Plastic Base.jpg

Very nice razors Sir!

Sent from my SM-J701F using Tapatalk

[Clouds]

Very nice razors Sir!

Thanks Sir

[Clouds]

Janus Toggle

Its officially a Model 3000 and obviously a homage to the Gillette Toggle.
It was designed and built in Minnesota, US of A. Its manufactured in Stainless Steel. It was first announced in late December 2018. Sales must have been slow because in May 2019 a Kickstarter campaign was started and ultimately failed. Eric, the designer announced that the initial run would be 51 (his 1 plus another 50) and managed to sell the 50 through word-of-mouth through various shaving forums.

Everyone was kept up to date with the progress, but there were delays. Murphy also interfered in the process with COVID. Eventually they were sent out in late May. The first lot of reviews that came out were not complimentary, so much so that he has refunded some customers. After a few days someone tried it on the higher settings and what generally has come out is that its better on the higher settings but stay away from the ultra sharp blades.

It's taken just over six weeks from landing at Aramex NYC to getting into my hands - Murphy/COVID again!!! Mine has the very slight machine marks on the toggle but other than that, I can't fault it.


How does its shave:
Although I was unhappy with the delay, I do have the benefit of hindsight. I used a "3 shave old" Wizamet Super Iridium and dialed it to 8.
Guess what - A two pass BBS, so yes it's aggressive. It reopened a small cut that I caught yesterday, but some cold water immediately closed that.

So no I'm not complaining about my Janus...

SOTD200716.jpg

[RiverValleyTrading]

Janus Toggle

Its officially a Model 3000 and obviously a homage to the Gillette Toggle.
It was designed and built in Minnesota, US of A. Its manufactured in Stainless Steel. It was first announced in late December 2018. Sales must have been slow because in May 2019 a Kickstarter campaign was started and ultimately failed. Eric, the designer announced that the initial run would be 51 (his 1 plus another 50) and managed to sell the 50 through word-of-mouth through various shaving forums.

Everyone was kept up to date with the progress, but there were delays. Murphy also interfered in the process with COVID. Eventually they were sent out in late May. The first lot of reviews that came out were not complimentary, so much so that he has refunded some customers. After a few days someone tried it on the higher settings and what generally has come out is that its better on the higher settings but stay away from the ultra sharp blades.

It's taken just over six weeks from landing at Aramex NYC to getting into my hands - Murphy/COVID again!!! Mine has the very slight machine marks on the toggle but other than that, I can't fault it.


How does its shave:
Although I was unhappy with the delay, I do have the benefit of hindsight. I used a "3 shave old" Wizamet Super Iridium and dialed it to 8.
Guess what - A two pass BBS, so yes it's aggressive. It reopened a small cut that I caught yesterday, but some cold water immediately closed that.

So no I'm not complaining about my Janus...

SOTD200716.jpg

Nice one Clouds. Very cool razor. Do you have the original toggle razor as well? How does it compare?

Sent from my SM-J701F using Tapatalk

[Clouds]

Nice one Clouds. Very cool razor. Do you have the original toggle razor as well? How does it compare?

Thanks RVT. Yes I do, check out page 3 of this thread.

First and foremost the Janus is far more aggressive. Size is approximately the same but the Janus looks chunky, it's like the retro cars, you can see the lineage, but they are "more mod". In hand its slightly heavier, which stands to reason. One shave in, so still very early days with it. I'll dabble around the low settings next and see what gives there.

[Clouds]

Rex Ambassador

This is Razor Emphorium's homage of the Gibbs Adjustable. It was the first one made in Stainless Steel. Its build quality is awesome and will easily last your lifetime. Its handle is longer and has a "bulb" for the twist knob, thus lowering the balance point and is in my opinion better balanced. The knurling is "just right".

This is a "M" version and is pretty draggy, though soap choice does help in this regard. From online reviews, this drag has been reduced in later versions.

SOTD200718.jpg

[RiverValleyTrading]

Rex Ambassador

This is Razor Emphorium's homage of the Gibbs Adjustable. It was the first one made in Stainless Steel. Its build quality is awesome and will easily last your lifetime. Its handle is longer and has a "bulb" for the twist knob, thus lowering the balance point and is in my opinion better balanced. The knurling is "just right".

This is a "M" version and is pretty draggy, though soap choice does help in this regard. From online reviews, this drag has been reduced in later versions.

SOTD200718.jpg

Very nice shave Clouds. Solid loking razor.

[dini]

Janus Toggle

Its officially a Model 3000 and obviously a homage to the Gillette Toggle.
It was designed and built in Minnesota, US of A. Its manufactured in Stainless Steel. It was first announced in late December 2018. Sales must have been slow because in May 2019 a Kickstarter campaign was started and ultimately failed. Eric, the designer announced that the initial run would be 51 (his 1 plus another 50) and managed to sell the 50 through word-of-mouth through various shaving forums.

Everyone was kept up to date with the progress, but there were delays. Murphy also interfered in the process with COVID. Eventually they were sent out in late May. The first lot of reviews that came out were not complimentary, so much so that he has refunded some customers. After a few days someone tried it on the higher settings and what generally has come out is that its better on the higher settings but stay away from the ultra sharp blades.

It's taken just over six weeks from landing at Aramex NYC to getting into my hands - Murphy/COVID again!!! Mine has the very slight machine marks on the toggle but other than that, I can't fault it.


How does its shave:
Although I was unhappy with the delay, I do have the benefit of hindsight. I used a "3 shave old" Wizamet Super Iridium and dialed it to 8.
Guess what - A two pass BBS, so yes it's aggressive. It reopened a small cut that I caught yesterday, but some cold water immediately closed that.

So no I'm not complaining about my Janus...

SOTD200716.jpg

This looks like a solid piece of metal, Clouds

[dini]

Rex Ambassador

This is Razor Emphorium's homage of the Gibbs Adjustable. It was the first one made in Stainless Steel. Its build quality is awesome and will easily last your lifetime. Its handle is longer and has a "bulb" for the twist knob, thus lowering the balance point and is in my opinion better balanced. The knurling is "just right".

This is a "M" version and is pretty draggy, though soap choice does help in this regard. From online reviews, this drag has been reduced in later versions.

SOTD200718.jpg

I have a Rex on my shopping list with Bundu. It does seem that the latest version are very good products.

Razor Emporium has a thread on another forum showing the work that went into this razor and it is unbelievable the amount of detail that went into this.

[Clouds]

Very nice shave Clouds. Solid loking razor.

Thanks RVT. Its built like a tank.

This looks like a solid piece of metal, Clouds

It is Dini.
JMHO but I think that its well made.

I have a Rex on my shopping list with Bundu. It does seem that the latest version are very good products.

Razor Emporium has a thread on another forum showing the work that went into this razor and it is unbelievable the amount of detail that went into this.

From all accounts they are so when you get one, please review it.

He also struggled with it for the first two years. Kudo's to him that he persevered.