Lets Talk Adjustables

Moderator: Clouds

Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sun Aug 16, 2020 8:17 am

Clouds wrote:Rockwell Model T


This is Rockwells entry into the one piece market. There was a successful Kickstarter campaign, but that's where it stopped. There was delay after delay and eventually when the first batch was released the reviews were generally bad. Its pretty much a copy of a Gillette adjustable, but is continually adjustable.

This one is part of the initial batch that I bought through a BST and frank fully speaking, I can't see what everyone was griping about. The only issue that I had with mine is that the adjuster dial was too stiff to begin with, so much so that I didn't change it during a shave. Its loosened up substantially and changing settings during a shave is possible.

How does its shave:
Its shave is similar to the earlier Gillette adjustables, so a mild but good everyday shaver.


SOTD200814.jpg


Looks Good, glad it finally managed to get off the ground.
This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:51 am

Merkur Futur

This was introduced back in 1985. It looks pretty modern even by today's standards. Its a two piece but instead of the TopCap screwing off, it has a clip and pin arrangement. Its head is a little bulky so betting into the tight spots can be an issue. They are prone to zamak rot, so just make sure that all the soap residue is cleaned out.

How does it shave
Its a smooth but at the same time pretty aggressive razor. I personally prefer it on the higher settings with a slightly older blade.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:52 am

Clouds wrote:Merkur Futur

This was introduced back in 1985. It looks pretty modern even by today's standards. Its a two piece but instead of the TopCap screwing off, it has a clip and pin arrangement. Its head is a little bulky so betting into the tight spots can be an issue. They are prone to zamak rot, so just make sure that all the soap residue is cleaned out.

How does it shave
Its a smooth but at the same time pretty aggressive razor. I personally prefer it on the higher settings with a slightly older blade.


SOTD200815.jpg



Great shave all around. The Futur is a nice looking razor.
This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:53 am

Darwin Adjustable

This is one great looking razor. The instantly recognisable handle is stunning. These go back to the 1930's. This is the "Standard Model" Stainless Steel version and has markings under the head to indicate the adjustability. Typical Darwin, the thread goes right through the TopCap and protrudes slightly but doesn't affect the shave in any way.

On Adjustability - It comes from a time when the blades were thicker and had more spring in them. It can no longer be called an adjustable using today's standard DE blades.

How does its shave.
Its a very mild shaver, so its not one that gets a lot of use. I do need to use it with new or newish blades.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sun Aug 16, 2020 3:35 pm

Clouds wrote:Darwin Adjustable

This is one great looking razor. The instantly recognisable handle is stunning. These go back to the 1930's. This is the "Standard Model" Stainless Steel version and has markings under the head to indicate the adjustability. Typical Darwin, the thread goes right through the TopCap and protrudes slightly but doesn't affect the shave in any way.

On Adjustability - It comes from a time when the blades were thicker and had more spring in them. It can no longer be called an adjustable using today's standard DE blades.

How does its shave.
Its a very mild shaver, so its not one that gets a lot of use. I do need to use it with new or newish blades.


SOTD200816.jpg


Very nice Darwin there Clouds. Always loved the profile of the handle.
This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Aug 16, 2020 6:38 pm

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Looks Good, glad it finally managed to get off the ground.

So am I RVT.
They lost a pile of goodwill on this when it finally hit the streets.

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Great shave all around. The Futur is a nice looking razor.

Thanks again RVT.
Every time that I look at it, it amazes me that the design is 35 years old.

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Very nice Darwin there Clouds. Always loved the profile of the handle.

And again RVT. Yip, a very distinctive profile - stunning, I only wish that I could machine like that (no CNC back in the 1930's) ....
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Fri Aug 21, 2020 2:07 pm

Maravilla Basculante

A lot of searching and I'm still coming up empty on this one.
Maravilla is a Spanish brand, and Basculante means Pivot. The head itself seems pretty standard Maravilla. The handle is a three piece and has a ball joint in the top section with which you can set the slant, so it can be used as standard or a slant razor.

How does it shave
Its a mild razor, pretty smooth but you are not getting an easy BBS out of it.

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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sat Aug 22, 2020 4:57 pm

Gibbs Ref 9

This is the most sought after Gibbs razor that they produced.

In order to open the TopCap you press the button at the bottom and the topcap springs open, hence the nickname Gibbs Click. I believe that it's the only one piece that they produced (but correct me if I'm wrong). The adjustment "system" is the same as the Gibbs 15/17 except that it doesn't open as wide.

The topcap is angular so the shave angle is almost set for you. Aah yes - It uses standard blades.

How does it shave:
Its no BBS razor. Its a very mild shaver even at its most open.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sat Aug 22, 2020 4:58 pm

Great shaves Clouds! Two very interesting razors.

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This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Aug 23, 2020 10:09 am

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Great shaves Clouds! Two very interesting razors.

Thanks RVT - both very mild razors
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Aug 23, 2020 10:17 am

Superman

This razor uses a proprietory blade but a Gem can be modified to suit. It dates back to 1913 and must have been one of the first gap-adjustable razors. The gap goes from Zero to just under 4mm - so at it's widest, its huge.

How does it shave
The head is pretty flat so getting into the tight spots is easy and the shaving angle is intuitive. Its a great shaver.

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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sun Aug 23, 2020 10:22 am

Clouds wrote:Superman

This razor uses a proprietory blade but a Gem can be modified to suit. It dates back to 1913 and must have been one of the first gap-adjustable razors. The gap goes from Zero to just under 4mm - so at it's widest, its huge.

How does it shave
The head is pretty flat so getting into the tight spots is easy and the shaving angle is intuitive. Its a great shaver.

SOTD200823.jpg
Wow, I haven't seen of those come up in a shave of the day. I once came across one in an auction site. Very nice.

Sent from my SM-J701F using Tapatalk
This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dini » Sun Aug 23, 2020 11:16 am

Clouds wrote:Superman

This razor uses a proprietory blade but a Gem can be modified to suit. It dates back to 1913 and must have been one of the first gap-adjustable razors. The gap goes from Zero to just under 4mm - so at it's widest, its huge.

How does it shave
The head is pretty flat so getting into the tight spots is easy and the shaving angle is intuitive. Its a great shaver.

SOTD200823.jpg


Do you have any more info on this razor, Clouds. I have ever seen anything remotely resembling this before.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dappershaves » Mon Aug 24, 2020 7:33 pm

Great thread Claudio, lots of classy razors and great info.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:20 am

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Wow, I haven't seen of those come up in a shave of the day. I once came across one in an auction site. Very nice.

Thanks RVT.
The blade is the issue. I was pointed to one on Ebay a few months back which didn't sell and came up a few times.

dappershaves wrote:Great thread Claudio, lots of classy razors and great info.

Thanks Jacques, very kewl straight on the SOTD yesterday and great pics as well...

dini wrote:Do you have any more info on this razor, Clouds. I have ever seen anything remotely resembling this before.

There isn't much out there on it.
It was made by the Superman Safety Razor Co, Unionville, CT. A guy called William Finney patented it back in 1913 and it was also sold as a Finney. The blades are apparently King of Cutters blades.

The whole top is basically two pieces of flat spring steel which have been shaped and riveted together, nothing much to it at all. It dismantles into three pieces but operates as a one piece. The blade just slides in and is tightly held in by friction. The gap at its widest is intimidating, but despite that its an easy shaver. There are no markings on the adjuster knob/dial so repeatability could be an issue.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Tue Aug 25, 2020 1:58 pm

Vikings Blade "Meiji"

The details are a bit sketchy on this. According to the literature, they are designed in Australia and manufactured using their equipment in Asia. There's also been a fair bit of controversy regarding them and Baili in China. Its also my first adjustable that is made in China.

The mechanism is similar to the Gillette adjustables but there are no clicks. It has two different bars. The one is smooth and the opposite side is ridged. I found that the doors don't open wide enough to easily insert a blade. The "get-around" is to twist it open and then open the adjuster to its max and that opens the doors a little more, insert the blade and reverse the process.

There has also been reports of alignment issues. This one curves very slightly at the blade edges but nothing that gives me cause for concern.

For its size its a quite heavy and feels pretty solid.

How does it shave
If the first shave is anything to go with, its no BBS razor. Next time out its getting fed a new blade.
The little notches that open the doors are not as smooth as they should be and I felt them while shaving - nothing hectic but they are there.

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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:59 pm

Gibbs 15 Aluminium

This is the light-weight version of the famous one. All the brass parts are made in aluminium and are all interchangeable with the brass version. It only came numbered as a 15. Been aluminium it's not head heavy so there is little to no benefit in the brass handles.

How does it shave
I find it a bit draggy, so use a slick soap and a little light, so use some pressure. I also need to use it with a new/newish blade to get the best out of it. If I keep to this formula, its an easy 3pass-BBS shaver.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sat Aug 29, 2020 2:07 pm

Rocnel Sailor 2019

Four words best describe this razor - Big, Chunky, Heavy and Efficient.

Rocnels 2019 sailor is the third in their Sailor series. There was supposedly only 100 made and the first batch was sent out late 2019. Adjustability starts at Medium and goes up from there.

How does it shave:
This is one that I do need to take my time with it. Its super efficient and a 2pass is the norm.

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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dini » Mon Aug 31, 2020 9:33 pm

That Rocnel seems like like a solid unit, Clouds. Was after a unit myself when they were launched but lost interest after DHL or Aramex quoted me for shipping :lol:

Never read a bad comment on that Sailor Series
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Tue Sep 01, 2020 3:48 am

dini wrote:That Rocnel seems like like a solid unit, Clouds. Was after a unit myself when they were launched but lost interest after DHL or Aramex quoted me for shipping :lol:

Never read a bad comment on that Sailor Series

Its is solid.
The only bad thing to say about the 2019 series is that they are not "mindless" shavers, you do need to take things carefully. I don't reach for it if I going to be rushed.

If you are still interested in a 2020 version get in touch with Murat on Instagram and order it directly from Turkey.
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