Lets Talk Adjustables

Moderator: Clouds

Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Tue Feb 16, 2021 10:25 am

Clouds wrote:Rocnel Sailor 2020

Another typical Rocnel Adjustable. It's very well made and comes in stunning packaging. Like its predecessors, the head follows the "sailor cap" shape but is made deeper and thus is also heavier. Rocnel keep upping their game with each new version. There is nothing that I can really add to that.

Sailor01.jpg


It's the heaviest Sailor to date, so no need for pressure - let the weight of the razor do the work.

Sailor02.jpg



How does its shave?
In aggression it sits between the two previous versions and in my humble opinion its the best shaver of the Sailor series, to date.

SOTD210212.jpg
Wow! Thats a good looking razor!

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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dini » Tue Feb 16, 2021 9:17 pm

Dammit , Clouds. :oo .

That has triggered my must have impulse so much.

That is a fantastic looking razor, a real work of art. Very nice.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Tue Feb 16, 2021 9:41 pm

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Wow! Thats a good looking razor!

Isn't it just RVT and it shaves just as good as it looks.


dini wrote:Dammit , Clouds. :oo .

That has triggered my must have impulse so much.

That is a fantastic looking razor, a real work of art. Very nice.

Wait a few months Dini. He is releasing a shorter version.
I still think that looks-wise, the first Sailor is the berries - JMHO.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby BLES » Wed Feb 17, 2021 10:32 am

Clouds wrote:Rocnel Sailor 2020

Another typical Rocnel Adjustable. It's very well made and comes in stunning packaging. Like its predecessors, the head follows the "sailor cap" shape but is made deeper and thus is also heavier. Rocnel keep upping their game with each new version. There is nothing that I can really add to that.

Sailor01.jpg


It's the heaviest Sailor to date, so no need for pressure - let the weight of the razor do the work.

Sailor02.jpg



How does its shave?
In aggression it sits between the two previous versions and in my humble opinion its the best shaver of the Sailor series, to date.

SOTD210212.jpg

Superb razor and eye catcher.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Feb 21, 2021 12:44 pm

Young Any Angle

This stylish looking razor is well over 100 years old. The patent on this was granted on 25 October 1910. The idea in the patent was to mimic the Gillette "Slide".

Young 01.jpg


Young razor.jpg


These are the 4 parts making up the razor and an original blade that has seen far better days. The blade tray is just to small to accept a Gem blade. I de-spined one and had to sandpaper a touch off each side to make it fit. I also sandpapered the blade corners to match the original blade. The blade is not broad enough but the set screw does give it enough tension to hold it in place.

Young 002.jpg


It's another slant adjustable, Single-Edge razor that I thought would be an issue to change it from side to side but the spring washer on the set-screw allows you to easily change the angle without loosening the set screw itself. Just a push on the guard and it swivels.

By the way, the "any" angle is only changable in 30degree increments!

SOTD210220.jpg


How does it shave
Firstly keep in mind that I am not using the correct blade for it, although I would suspect that the correct blade will shave no differently.
Generally I find that Gem blade razors are medium to aggressive - this one is mild. Its no BBS shaver.
It will be revisited and if I find different, I will update this post.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dappershaves » Sun Feb 21, 2021 12:52 pm

Nice shave Mr Adjustable
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sun Feb 21, 2021 2:56 pm

Wow! Nice one! :)
This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Wed Mar 03, 2021 9:30 pm

dappershaves wrote:Nice shave Mr Adjustable

Thanks Mr Straight...

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Wow! Nice one! :)

Thanks again RVT
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Wed Mar 03, 2021 9:47 pm

Yaqi Adjustable

There is so much controversy over this razor and truthfully I am not really understanding why all the fuss.
Yaqi have taken their standard Closed Comb head and mated it with a "Gibbs Seven Part" adjustment mechanism. The closed comb head design is used by a fair number of companies and the 7 part - Gibbs type adjustment mechanism is also used by a few companies.

I never managed to get the first version. When I heard that there was a local Yaqi agent I asked Fernando at Yaqi SA to see if he could get me one. He couldn't but put me down for the V2.

Yaqi002.jpg


Onto my thoughts on the razor itself.
Its an All Zamak razor and the price point for an adjustable is very reasonable.
The head part and twist knob are fine, the adjustment knob and handle are not.
They haven't fixed the problem that existed in V1.....

Yaqi001.jpg


So, whats wrong with the handle and adjustment knob.
The adjuster knob is nothing serious. They have made the indicator too small and it gets lost in all the chrome. Other than that it works as it should.

The handle is their biggest mistake. Simply put - you are able to screw the head too far into the handle. All their problems could have been avoided/fixed by machining a stop in the handle itself.

You can work around this by:
1 - Loosen the twist knob and install blade.
2 - Make sure that the adjuster knob is it its most closed, not tight though.
3 - Undo the handle 1 to 1,5 turns and at the same time made sure that the adjuster knob is still loose-ish
4 - Hold the handle and re-tighten the twist knob.
Now that you have everything all tightened up, the adjuster knob will rotate freely.

How do I know all of this - Well I have the T-Shirt, I made exactly the same mistake on the very first Gibbs Brass handle that I made.

Two other minor irritations are:
1 - It's calibration is 1 number out and
2 - the numbering is weird - 1,2,3,6,5,4 - Why??

SOTD210226.jpg


How does it shave:
I have the similar fixed head and have found it to be pretty mild. On the low settings this is slightly more aggressive. The fact that I can open the gap up on it has turned it into a pretty decent shaver. I found a fair a bit of blade feel but not as efficient as I would have expected. There is also a bit of drag but both the "high-end" Personna and the Rex have more so I don't see it as a big negative.

Overall, I managed a BBS in 3Passes plus some touch-ups.


Future plans - The thread is a very weird one and If I can get the correct tap I'll make a new handle that fixes the issue and also make a new adjuster knob with a decent size indicator that my aged eyes can see. At the same time I can calibrate it correctly. I believe that I have found the correct tap and have two on the way, one of which needs to be modified.


UPDATE 13/03/21:
The Yaqi is now working as it should. I received the taps yesterday and first made the handle. As I indicated earlier in this post, there is no stop in the handle - such a small mistake. Last evening I made the twist and the adjuster knobs to complete the job. The adjuster knob has a nice big red dot. There is still some polishing to do. The image shows the fixed razor and the three parts that I replaced. (The fix only needs the handle.)

The handle was inspired by an Italian Radimi. I've been pretty keen to make one but didn't have a need for another handle until this popped up. I also prefer shorter handles so this is about 7mm shorter than the original.

Yaqi Fixed 02 small.jpg
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dappershaves » Wed Mar 03, 2021 10:19 pm

Nice write-up and fix for the handle. You’re a scholar and a gentlemen
:o::: dappershaves
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Thu Mar 04, 2021 5:57 am

Nice one Clouds!

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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby dini » Sat Mar 06, 2021 7:21 pm

As always, nice write up Clouds

Watching this space on your Yaqi fix
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sat Mar 13, 2021 6:55 am

The Yaqi post has been updated.
All done and it works as it should.

dappershaves wrote:Nice write-up and fix for the handle. You’re a scholar and a gentlemen
:o::: dappershaves

Thanks Jacques

RiverValleyTrading wrote:Nice one Clouds!

And thanks again RVT.

dini wrote:As always, nice write up Clouds

Watching this space on your Yaqi fix

Thanks dini - the post has been updated with the fix.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby RiverValleyTrading » Sat Mar 13, 2021 12:25 pm

Well done Clouds! :)
This is how my Grandfather shaved
This is how my Father shaved
This is how I shave.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby lladets » Sun Mar 28, 2021 3:17 pm

Clouds wrote:Yaqi Adjustable

There is so much controversy over this razor and truthfully I am not really understanding why all the fuss.
Yaqi have taken their standard Closed Comb head and mated it with a "Gibbs Seven Part" adjustment mechanism. The closed comb head design is used by a fair number of companies and the 7 part - Gibbs type adjustment mechanism is also used by a few companies.

I never managed to get the first version. When I heard that there was a local Yaqi agent I asked Fernando at Yaqi SA to see if he could get me one. He couldn't but put me down for the V2.

Yaqi002.jpg


Onto my thoughts on the razor itself.
Its an All Zamak razor and the price point for an adjustable is very reasonable.
The head part and twist knob are fine, the adjustment knob and handle are not.
They haven't fixed the problem that existed in V1.....

Yaqi001.jpg


So, whats wrong with the handle and adjustment knob.
The adjuster knob is nothing serious. They have made the indicator too small and it gets lost in all the chrome. Other than that it works as it should.

The handle is their biggest mistake. Simply put - you are able to screw the head too far into the handle. All their problems could have been avoided/fixed by machining a stop in the handle itself.

You can work around this by:
1 - Loosen the twist knob and install blade.
2 - Make sure that the adjuster knob is it its most closed, not tight though.
3 - Undo the handle 1 to 1,5 turns and at the same time made sure that the adjuster knob is still loose-ish
4 - Hold the handle and re-tighten the twist knob.
Now that you have everything all tightened up, the adjuster knob will rotate freely.

How do I know all of this - Well I have the T-Shirt, I made exactly the same mistake on the very first Gibbs Brass handle that I made.

Two other minor irritations are:
1 - It's calibration is 1 number out and
2 - the numbering is weird - 1,2,3,6,5,4 - Why??

SOTD210226.jpg


How does it shave:
I have the similar fixed head and have found it to be pretty mild. On the low settings this is slightly more aggressive. The fact that I can open the gap up on it has turned it into a pretty decent shaver. I found a fair a bit of blade feel but not as efficient as I would have expected. There is also a bit of drag but both the "high-end" Personna and the Rex have more so I don't see it as a big negative.

Overall, I managed a BBS in 3Passes plus some touch-ups.


Future plans - The thread is a very weird one and If I can get the correct tap I'll make a new handle that fixes the issue and also make a new adjuster knob with a decent size indicator that my aged eyes can see. At the same time I can calibrate it correctly. I believe that I have found the correct tap and have two on the way, one of which needs to be modified.


UPDATE 13/03/21:
The Yaqi is now working as it should. I received the taps yesterday and first made the handle. As I indicated earlier in this post, there is no stop in the handle - such a small mistake. Last evening I made the twist and the adjuster knobs to complete the job. The adjuster knob has a nice big red dot. There is still some polishing to do. The image shows the fixed razor and the three parts that I replaced. (The fix only needs the handle.)

The handle was inspired by an Italian Radimi. I've been pretty keen to make one but didn't have a need for another handle until this popped up. I also prefer shorter handles so this is about 7mm shorter than the original.

Yaqi Fixed 02 small.jpg
What is the size of the thread on the Yaqi handles? I imported a short handle from Aliexpress and the threads are not cut deep enough. If I could get a tap I would be able to remedy the problem. Please let me know.


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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Mar 28, 2021 3:25 pm

lladets wrote:What is the size of the thread on the Yaqi handles? I imported a short handle from Aliexpress and the threads are not cut deep enough. If I could get a tap I would be able to remedy the problem. Please let me know.

8 x 0.9mm
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby TheHMan » Mon Apr 12, 2021 3:46 pm

Clouds wrote:Taiga Adjustable

Made in Mother Russia by Homelike shaving, I believe that its the best "all rounder" of the current adjustables. Its based on a Gibbs, made of Stainless Steel and takes standard blades. Overall its a very well made razor. The laser engraving is a little difficult for my ageing eyes to see.

It comes with a 90mm handle and the two base plates shown in the insert.The Solid Bar is the more comfortable shave while the Open Comb is the more effecient.

The Handle in the picture is a self made 78mm and in line with what I prefer.

How does it shave:
Short answer - extremely well.
As I said earlier, I believe it to be the best all-rounder of the "current" adjustables. On the low to middle settings with the SB base plate its a comfortable everyday shaver. If you need a bit extra dial it up or swop base plates. I generally keep the open comb base plate in it as its the only OC adjustable that I own.


SOTD200616.jpg


This razor looks like a real winner, the handle upgrade does too!
Sadly it looks like they may have discontinued the OC option. Still it's high up on my wish list at the moment.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun Apr 25, 2021 6:31 pm

TheHMan wrote:This razor looks like a real winner, the handle upgrade does too!
Sadly it looks like they may have discontinued the OC option. Still it's high up on my wish list at the moment.

It is a winner, and I believe that they made a mistake not offering an OC option.
That said, generally SB's sell more than OC's so maybe that was their rationale - who knows.
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Re: Lets Talk Adjustables

Postby Clouds » Sun May 16, 2021 2:43 pm

Tatara Muramasa

The Muramasa has landed.

TatMuramasa01s.jpg

TatMuramasa02s.jpg


I've always likes the design of their razors and when I heard that they were looking at releasing an adjustable I knew that one was going to land here.
Its a great looking razor - JMHO.

Its an all stainless steel razor with a "sort of" a totally new take on adjustability with the two solid bars moving in and out - The L'Essor Le Supreme is another that does this. Turn the dial under the head and it moves the bars - very ingenious.

TatMuramasa03s.jpg


When I received it, I found the adjustment dial difficult to move. It has a little O-ring that provides the resistance that holds the adjustment, so I put a bit of vaseline in it which allows it to move smoothly and also hold the adjustment.

Two, maybe three negatives...
Its too mild and 1 should be where 3 currently is.
The "setting" window is way too small for my eyes and the black background, I suspect that the black will wear off over time and that will make the numbers more difficult to see.

Some say that the handle length is too short, but for me its pretty much spot-on mmaayybbee a tad too long

Tatara provide a key to dismantle it for deep cleaning.

TatMuramasa04s.jpg


SOTD210516.jpg


How does it shave?
I have the benefit of other guys reviewing this before me, so I sort of knew what to expect. After seeing their reviews I made sure that I had a twice used Wizamet waiting for it. I started on 3 ATG and immediately realized that it needed to go up, so dialed it to 4 and finished off the ATG portion of the shave, relathered and dialed it up to 5 and did the WTG part of the shave. I had to do my normal touch-ups and I'm pretty much BBS.

Kudo's to Tatara for bringing something very different to the market.
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Grath - The Lifetime Razor

Postby dappershaves » Wed May 19, 2021 3:33 pm

Grath - The Lifetime Razor

Grath Safety Razor Company, Los Angeles CA
circa 1930’s
Blade: 7/8 JA Henckels Rapide - Carbon Steel
Edge: “Surgical Black” - Black Novaculite
Soap: Proraso Sandelwood
Brush: Badger
D32DD7F4-7AC8-44C4-98C0-56C5528D848F.jpeg

I’ve been privileged to had the opportunity to shave with a rare and unique adjustable safety razor. Thank you Mr Adjustable (aka @clouds )for entrusting me with this beauty. You have a wonderful collection of razors and I enjoy following your point of view of actually using them.

Simplicity does not get any better when you look at the engineering and manufacturing used to create this razor. No rocket science here but the end result is a thoughtful and robust product designed to make the shaver self sufficient. Its a clever and very elegant design IMO.
F7C7ABF4-A09D-4D99-87D4-B0AEF0A6722B.jpeg

The Grath uses extra hollow grind, carbon steel blades that’s fitted into a blade retainer on the razor. The retainer can be adjusted by 2 treaded rollers on the side of the razor that move/slide the blade backward or toward the razor’s guard, essentially controlling the blade gap in relation to the guard. This also serves to move the blade forward as the blade width is reduce by honing over many, many, many decades.

I did mention thoughtful design and its not difficult to spot either. Fundamentally the razor is a mechanism that holds a short straight razor blade in place with a leading guard. So to my point, the bend in the handle at the razor head encourage a more upright position of the blade, thus creating a shallow blade/skin angle that’s required when shaving with a straight, and a safety razor as a matter of fact! Razor edges are less that 0,05micron in apex diameter, the steeper the blade angle when cutting beard the easier the edge apex deforms and chip (microchipping) resulting in tugging, dullness and weepers. Ride the cap more boys…
A2C11FA2-BF5F-46EB-BC18-148910F095AD.jpeg

Whoever designed this razor had loads of straight razor experience and leaned on that knowledge heavily. The razor comes in a wooden box that contains a bar and holding mechanism used to sharpen/strop the blade, essentially its a handle. This is a massive advantage when honing the blade. Talking about honing, there’s a razor hone with a strop backing included and neatly housed in the box lid.
9618ED64-CC53-40AE-B2D5-5182D18330CD.jpeg

BFB17E52-B9B1-4CE9-969D-95C319D2444B.jpeg

How does it shave then….

The weight and overall balance is very good with descent knurling to ensure good grip even with slippery fingers. The ergonomics in hand is great with a natural feel, at least to me and as mentioned helps keep a shallow skin/blade angle.

The blade gap as shown below is what I used, I have no idea what that relates too. Neither I did fiddle with adjustments during the shave but believe it can be increased a lot more.
54773D38-1CAB-4144-B6DC-7D2C32EAB109.jpeg

Smooth, comfortable and friendly are the things that come to mind during the shave with little clean-up. The blade is a Henckels, not an original and very thinly grind. Someone with a very heavy/tough beard might want to try a less flexible blade. I was able to do effortless buffing on the difficult areas and in particular my chin. I finished the shave with a fistful of Clubman Pinuad, brief alcohol sting, no irritation.
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